Portugal 2025 | Food, Wine and Beer

Cheers!

Before we went to Portugal, I anticipated having a lot of seafood. I had never thought I liked seafood and discovered it was largely due to the way it was prepared (bland). I found some really good recipes before we left and got myself “up to speed” with fish.

Portugal is also known for its wines. Beer, not so much. During the trip, I don’t think we had any bad wine. Conversely, I only really had one good beer (a can of Hazy IPA our last night in Porto).

WINE

I’ll start with the wine. Our first night in Portugal, we went to a restaurant near our hotel and six of us had entrees and two bottles of wine for €127. Total. The wine on the menu was €13 and we had to ask if that was by the glass or by the bottle. It was bottle.

Excellent wine. Most everywhere.

We also when on a wine tasting tour of the Douro Valley where they make Port wines. I had never really like Port wine, but these were amazing.

Port tasting in the Douro Valley.

Portugal is also famous for its Ginja, a sweet, fortified liquor made from cherries. It is popular in Óbidos and served in a chocolate cup that you eat after drinking the Ginja. It wasn’t bad.

Ginja in a chocolate cup at Óbidos, Portugal.

Beer. Don’t bother. You can have most any kind of beer you want as long as it’s Super Bock, a pilsner. I dislike pilsners. They also have a Super Bock stout. I dislike stouts, too.

Super Bock. It was EVERYWHERE. Meh.

So stick with wine.

FOOD

Overall, we were a bit disappointed in the food. As I’ve mulled over my thoughts on this, I think it’s largely the lack of variety and the very mild seasonings. We have a friend who always takes a tiny bottle of Tabasco with him when he travels.

Now we know why.

Obviously, there is a lot of seafood (cod, sardines, octopus, shrimp and occasionally, salmon). There is also a lot of pork, generally as sausage or pounded-thin fried steaks. They do a fair amount of soup, generally vegetable and generally pureed. There are some “touristy” foods such as pizza, burgers, and hot dogs.

Sardines. They actually weren’t bad.
Shrimp salad with avocado.
Vegetable soup, pureed.
Curried salmon. Good enough I looked up a recipe when we returned home.
Fried pork steaks. Pounded thin. They were OK.
Pork sausage flambé. It came out on fire. And it was tasty.

We tried some alheira sausage. Originally created by the Jewish residents to hide the fact they were Jewish during the Inquisition It was made with chicken. It was also not nearly as good as the pork sausage.

Alheira sausage. Mushy.
Pork sausage in Sintra. Yummy. Good spices.

Two specific foods we tried (and liked) were the Bolinhos de Bacalhau (cod cakes) and the Francesinha (a layered sandwich).

The Bacalhau were generally very yummy. I ordered them a few times and liked them.

Bolinhos de Bacalhau in Sintra.

The Francesinha is a hot sandwich of sorts with a layer of bread, layers of meat, layers of cheese, more bread, more meat, more cheese. Topped with a sauce/gravy. You could also call it “heart attack on a plate”. It was OK.

Francesinha in Porto.

However, one amazing food they have is Pastel de Nata, which is a small, egg custard pastry that is amazing, especially when you sprinkle cinnamon on top and eat them slightly cooled right out of the oven. Our cooking class made them (see my blog for Day Five) and loved them. Paired with some good espresso.

Pastel de Nata and espresso. Doesn’t get much better!

TOURISTY STUFF

There were some touristy foods we became thankful for. After eating cod, pork, cod and more pork, we enjoyed some other good foods. We had an amazing smash burger in Queluz (paired with fresh-squeezed lemonade), a unique “hot dog” and fries in Porto at a place recommended by the late Anthony Bourdain and a four ingredient pizza in Porto where they separated the four toppings. Interesting.

No words. It was awesome!
I agree with Anthony Bourdain. And it tasted much better than it looked.
Four topping pizza. Separated. After all, you wouldn’t want to mix the toppings…

Not to miss out on some unique pastries more like we are accustomed to, we had some carrot cake and pastry with an espresso and a macchiato. Quite tasty.

Pastries and coffee. This was on our last day in Portugal.

Overall, the food was decent. But not a lot of variety and, as I mentioned earlier, not a lot of spice. We were there two weeks and by the end of our time, I was a little tired of eating pretty much the same things day in and day out.

But if you just went for the wine… it was superb.

Portugal 2025 | Day Twelve

Our last full day in Portugal before we were to get up at 3:30am for our early flight out and our 27 hour trip home. We had booked a tour of the Palácio da Bolsa, the stock exchange building. In Portugal, this is more like the local Chamber of Commerce.

Main lobby of the Palácio do Bolsa.
Intricacies throughout.

It was formerly a convent that burned during the siege of Porto in 1832. Attached and adjacent is the Igreja de São Francisco, which was not destroyed. I’ll leave the jokes about separation of church and state to your imagination. But it made for some interesting thoughts.

We are ready to go home.

The interior is extremely detailed in the neo-classic style, generally, with an eclectic mix of other styles as well. The Arab Room is called “the jewel of the palace” and is definitely the highlight of the tour.

The Arab Room at the Palácio.

We also toured the adjacent Igreja, which did not burn.

Since we were in the neighborhood, we walked across the Dom Luís I bridge, designed by the Eiffel Tower engineer. We walked across the top, enjoyed the scenery, had lunch in Gaia, then walked back across the lower level.

Porto from the top of the Dom Luís I Bridge.
It was almost my birthday, and we found this Pizza Hut sign interesting. No, we didn’t eat there.
View of Porto from Gaia across the Douro River.

That evening was our last dinner in Portugal and we found a little cocktail bar just a block from our hotel. The host was Lucas and the bar was Cais Nobre, Bar Et Cocktails. We thought it was amazing. We later found out it has 96 reviews on TripAdvisor. And 96 five star reviews. Nothing lower. Unheard of.

Wanting to eat light, since we were getting up very early, we just had a chicken wrap and some mushrooms. And I FINALLY found a good hazy IPA.

On our last night here. Go figure.

Chicken wrap, mushrooms and, yes, a good beer!

We walked back to our hotel and set our alarm for 3:00 am.

Portugal 2025 | Day Eleven

Aveiro, Portugal.

We had a full day lined up. It started with a trip to Aveiro, billed as “the Venice of Portugal” due to the canals. We had a short boat ride through town (it’s a small town) and saw some now-familiar architecture. Still wonderful weather.

A boat ride on the canals.

We then had a walking tour through some of the main streets.

Walking tour of Aveiro with cobblestone streets and fishing net patterns.

We then went a short distance to Costa Nova, where they are known for their brightly-painted houses. We walked down the main “house street” and enjoyed the architecture.

Costa Nova, Portugal.
Not all the houses are brightly-painted.
But most are brightly painted.
Costa Nova houses.

We then went back to Porto and went for a walk. There was a restaurant known for their hot dogs and made “famous” by the late Anthony Bourdain. So we had to try it. They were quite good! And, from the delivery while we were waiting, apparently quite fresh.

Gazela hot dog shop.
Hot dogs and fries. Really quite good.
Fresh pork for the hot dog shop.

From there, we went to the train station, which was nearby and enjoyed the architecture and decor. Tile everywhere.

Train Station lobby.
Excellent mass transit.

Then we just had to have an afternoon snack. We heard there was a Time Out Market in Porto, too, so we ventured over there. Had some good espresso, a macchiato and some pastries.

Sitting outside, we watched workers as they renovated some buildings just across the courtyard. There is construction/renovation activity just about everywhere in the cities we visited.

Time Out Market, Porto.
Yummy afternoon snack.

After that, we went back to our hotel and rested. We had just one more full day in Portugal before we were to head home.

Portugal 2025 | Day Ten

Porto riverfront.

Our next day in Porto was largely a free day. We decided to walk down to the bridge (more about that, later), take the funicular to higher parts of town and just wander around. We had tickets to the Livraria Lello, a neo-gothic building housing a bookstore that is so famous you have to pay to get in. And wait in line. Long line. With timed entry. And buy your tickets a day in advance.

Livraria Lello bookstore.

The bookstore was totally worth it. As an Architect, I appreciate the intricacies. And a lot of what looks like wood is painted plaster. Well done.

Torre dos Clérigos.

Adjacent to the bookstore was the Torre dos Clérigos, a baroque tower that you can climb to the top of. It is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site and was built from 1754 through 1763 and was restored in 2014. There are 225 steps to the top, which is 246 feet high. The steps get steeper and narrower as you ascend. But the views are worth it.

Porto from Torres dos Clérigos.

After this day, we returned to the hotel for a little rest before dinner with the larger group. We chilled in our hotel courtyard. We certainly got our steps in this day and were glad to kick our feet up for a while.

Ahhh…. Felt good to kick up our feet.
Our biggest “step” day.
Porto (left) and Gaia (right) on the Douro River.

Portugal 2025 | Day Nine

Douro River Valley. The home of some amazing wines, including Port wine.

Our second day in Porto brought a road (and boat) trip through the Douro Valley. This is the home of Port wines as well as just some amazing wines in general. As I’ve mentioned, I hadn’t found a beer I liked. It’s probably because this isn’t beer country.

It’s wine country.

One of the two wineries we visited.
Inside the winery.
Cheers!
We tasted them all. And we hadn’t even made it to the Port winery yet…
Color-coordinated. Didn’t even try.

While I never found a beer I liked, there wasn’t a wine I DIDN’T like. Even the Ports, which I normally find too sweet and too strong. But the Ports we had this day were awesome.

We toured two wineries. The first had a variety of wines. All amazing. The second specialized in Ports. Also amazing.

We had perfect weather (again). A good lunch. Beautiful scenery and a nice, relaxing boat trip on the Douro River for a very scenic stretch.

Winery along the Douro River.
The “group”.
Amazing view of the valley.

This trip was probably one of my favorite days on the whole trip. Relaxing. Great wine. Nice boat ride.

Walkway in Porto. Ignore Google Maps. Ignore Siri. Neither one got it right.

After we returned to Porto, we decided to take a walk up to the Jardins do Palácio de Cristal. The building there is a stadium/arena and not much to look at. The gardens were average (wrong time of year, I think). But the view of Porto and the river was wonderful.

Especially at sunset.

Sunset in Porto.

Afterward, we walked to a nearby restaurant to try some Francesinha, a layered sandwich that originated in Porto. Layers of bread, meat and cheese. And cheese. And cheese.

Francensinha originated in Porto.

Portugal 2025 | Day Eight

Porto, Portugal.

Day eight saw us leave Lisbon and take the train north to Porto. Porto is Portugal’s second largest city and it is right on the Douro River. It is also home to Port wine, which I’ll talk about tomorrow.

Our hotel was in the historic Ribeira district, a UNESCO World Heritage Site Heritage site with amazing old buildings, cobblestone streets and located right on the river.

Gold a Rust colored buildings are typical. Reminded me of our house colors.
Approaching sunset.
Waking up and down hills. We got our steps in each day!

We arrived around lunch time and had the rest of the day free to explore areas of the city. We made our way through narrow streets, which we were now accustomed to and to a Saturday evening mass at the Catedral do Porto.

Catedral do Porto.

After the mass, we made our way to a largely pedestrian street with cafes and street musicians. This particular man was an ex pat from Brazil. He was very good on the soprano saxophone.

Street musician in Porto.

We sat and listened, had some drinks and generally just chilled. When dinner time rolled around (which in Portugal is late, 7:00 to 8:00), we decided to try the restaurant right next to us. They had wonderful salad and soup. The salmon was curry spiced and very good. Overall, our food had been average (not much variety), but this one was excellent.

Tile facades everywhere. Tile reduces maintenance compared to painting.
The family “crew.”
Excellent salad.
Really good curried salmon.

We Ubered back to the hotel. Tomorrow would be a tour of the Douro River valley, Port wine tastings and a river tour. The weather had been mid to high 70s our entire time in Portugal and tomorrow looked like it would continue that trend.

Portugal 2025 | Day Seven

Since our Sintra/Pena Palace day was kind of a bust, we decided to visit the Palácio de Queluz. A good friend I’ve known my entire life highly recommended it (thanks, Mark). It is an 18th Century palace in Queluz, in the Sintra area. It is often described as the Portuguese Versailles.

It was incredible! The architecture, the grounds, the interiors were amazing. I’ll simply let the pictures speak for themselves. So glad we did this. It made up for missing the Pena Palace.

Palácio de Queluz

After the Palace, we decided to walk a couple of blocks away to the small town of Queluz. It was about lunch time, so we looked for a good place to eat. Found a burger/steak house with amazing food and fresh squeezed lemonade. Score!

Amazing smash burgers at a Gália, a burger/steak house just a few blocks from the Palace.
A front poch.

Portugal 2025 | Day Six

Sintra, Portugal.

Our sixth day was a day trip to Sintra. Pena Palace and Quinta da Regaleira were on the docket. Except they weren’t on the docket of our tour drivers. Even though that’s what their summary said. Oh well.

Sintra was a very pretty fairy tale town. The narrow streets and steep climbs were now a natural part of our vocabulary and expectations.

A typical street front in the Old Town area.
A ceramic shop where you could buy the trademark tiles of Portugal.
“Typical” building.
The common Pastéis de Bacalhau. Salted Cod Fritters. They were yummy.

After returning to Lisbon, we met up for a walking food tour through the downtown area. Our guide was a young Polish woman and very personable. Our first stop we sampled the Chouriço, which is a sausage with a smoky flavor from paprika.

Flamed Chouriço sausage. Also yummy.

Our main stop was to sample the sardines. I remember sardines as a kid and hated them. But I was willing to try most anything, so I did. They were actually quite flavorful and I liked them. Probably not enough to order them again or look for a recipe, but they were tasty.

Sardines.

After dinner, we stayed downtown and just walked around. Enjoying the rough, patterned cobblestone streets and walks and the Memorial Arch (this time at night).

Patterned, cobblestone walks. They were EVERYWHERE.
Memorial Arch at night.
As a guide on a previous trip once said, “don’t forget to look up.”

Our next day, our last in Lisbon, was a free day and we already knew what we were going to do.

Portugal 2025 | Day Five

Our fifth day was full. We had events and sights from morning to evening.

MORNING

Ancient castle dating back to the 1st Century BC.

We went to the Castelo de São Jorge sitting atop one of the major hills in Lisbon. It’s old, dating to the 1st Century BC. A fortress that provided shelter and protection through hundreds and hundreds of years. It also provided a great view of the city.

Lisbon from the Castelo de São Jorge.

From there, we went into town for lunch and had a very good pasta seafood dish and rustic bread. The rustic bread in Portugal became one of my favorites. You’ll note we had ice tea and Coke. Still not finding beer that I like.

Family lunch.
The rustic bread was always excellent.

AFTERNOON

The afternoon was our cooking/baking class. One thing Portugal is famous for is their Pastel de Nata. They are small egg/custard pastries that you sprinkle with cinnamon. They are decadent. Our larger group participated in a cooking class to learn how to make them.

Highly recommend Lisbon Affair.
Bernardo and Beatrix. Twin sibling chefs.

Our chef/instructors were twin siblings that were amazing. We were taught step by step through the process of making the pastels and when we finished, we got to eat the fruits of our labor.

Whatever it was, it was funny…
The fruits of our labors. They truly are decadent.
Pastel de Nata and Espresso.

The pastels were amazing. They were also an incredible amount of work to create.

EVENING

Our day ended with a sunset wine cruise on the river to finish out our day.

Sunset in Lisboa.

Portugal 2025 | Day Four

Our small tour group.

On the fourth day of our Portugal journey, we joined the rest of our small tour group. This marked the “official” beginning of the tour. It actually started the evening before with a wine “meet and greet” and dinner.

Part of our welcome basket for the start of the tour.

The morning brought a trip to the southernmost part of Portugal, Algarve. Algarve is a region with sedimentary cliffs, resorts and tourism. “Algarve” is derived from the Arabic word for “the west.”

The Harbor at Portimão, Portugal.

We had a short boat trip scheduled out of Portimão, a very cute community of about 60,000 people with gorgeous buildings along the harbor. We went out around the southern coast to view the sandstone cliffs. And yet again, we had amazing weather: 75ºF and sunny. This would be the rule for the entire trip!

Sedimentary cliffs along the southern coast of Algarve.
The resort mimicked the caves along the shore in its design.
A cave with open top.
Spectacular cliffs along the coast.

It was a long drive from Lisbon to Portimão. Almost three hours each way. While it was beautiful, I’m not sure it was worth that long of a drive. But, the weather really helped moderate that, though.

Us at the harbor in Portimão.

Tomorrow: baking class making the famous pastel de natas, a sunset cruise and the morning at one of the castles.